Chiang Reaction

One of the things I’m finding most enjoyable about this trip is the education you get along the way. We came to Taiwan because we heard the island is naturally beautiful, the night markets are fun, and the food is great (all true).

But just by virtue of being here in Taiwan, particularly after being in Beijing, you also get a much better feel for the history of the country and its current relations with mainland China. And no two men better exemplify that history than Chiang Kai-shek of the Republic of China (Taiwan), and Mao Zedong of the People’s Republic of China (which we call, you know…China).

A quick briefing for the uninformed (like I was): Taiwan is the last vestige of “free” Nationalist China, before the communists (under Mao) took over shortly after WWII. Led by Chiang Kai-shek, the remaining Nationalists fled to Taiwan, while Mao’s forces took over the mainland. This geo-political reality remains today, with both sides claiming to be the rightful rulers of both the mainland and Taiwan (although the United Nations officially recognized the communists in 1971, followed by the US in 1979 – something else I didn’t know until recently).

And something else I learned: while Mao is revered in the People’s Republic, Chiang is revered here in Taiwan. So much so that they built him a massive Memorial Hall in Taipei after his death.

I tell you this – Mao may have “won” the war, but Chiang won this battle: when it comes to memorials, the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall crushes Mao’s Mausoleum. It’s not even close. Amy and I checked it out.

First of all, Chiang’s Memorial Hall in Taipei overlooks a massive park, and faces two beautiful buildings, the National Theater and the National Concert Hall – unlike Mao’s Mausoleum seated on the large parking lot called Tiananmen Square.

As you approach the imposing edifice of Chiang’s Memorial Hall, you look up at a massive structure with ornate steps and a blue tile roof. It inspires awe like the steps of the Lincoln Memorial. It’s like you’re ascending to greatness.

Then you go into the Memorial Hall. The Lincoln Memorial comparisons are greatest here, quiet and reflective. There’s a massive statue of Chiang, surveying the nation he helped build. But unlike Lincoln, Chiang’s got a smile on his face.

Why? Despite his troubles with Mao and the communist horde, Chiang led a long and seemingly happy life. How do I know? Because unlike Mao’s Mausoleum, Chiang’s Hall has a museum downstairs where you can learn more about his life and see some of his personal items. Like this:

It’s Chiang’s thermal underwear! Yes, his undergarments are on display. The old man wore termal underwear, and they let you know it. Then there was this display:

That’s Chiang’s slippers, desk lamp, globe, and clock radio. It’s fascinating. If there’s ever a museum dedicated to me, will they display the ceramic bowl I throw my change in, the tin can that holds my pens and pencils, or the pair of old flip flops I used at the YMCA pool? What about the trophy I won for Most Valuable Bowler in the New York All-Media Bowling League? Surely that’s a museum piece.

Here’s something I noticed – look at this photo of Chiang and Madame Chiang outside grillin’ and chillin’. Do you see the stove?

Here’s a closer look…

And here’s that shot, flipped over so you can read it…

Carling’s Black Label! The old boy took a few Canadian beer cans and made a stove! I love it. He not only drank imported beer (from a can), but he was also an avid recycler. Here are some more personal effects:

He’s father of his country, and they show you his soup spoon and chopsticks?! But wait – it gets worse:

Chopsticks that he NEVER EVEN USED! Amy and I had about 40 pair of unused Chinese food chopsticks sitting in our kitchen drawer, but there’s no way they’re going into my museum with the bowling trophy and my flip flops.

My favorite part of the memorial was in this little room that talks about the history of the building itself.

They have some displays about the actual construction of the Memorial, the fundraising, and then there’s a photo presentation of all the dignitaries who’ve visited – heads of state, ambassadors…and this guy:

John Ritter! John Ritter is in the photo gallery of the VIPs who visited! How bummed were the Taiwanese, back during the heyday of Three’s Company, expecting Suzanne Somers would come with him, Thighmaster in tow? Or Mr. Furley? Oh man, I bet they were upset.

All this said, there were some things notably missing from the museum. Chiang may have been the father of modern-day Taiwan, but he had some major flaws that were conveniently left out. For example, the fact that he got beat by the Maoists. That his military record is mixed. And that the people who were in Taiwan before he fled the mainland weren’t thrilled with his arrival, and their protests were met with a massacre. He ruled both the Chinese mainland and Taiwan with an iron-fist.

Overall, despite some of the more questionable things in the museum portion, it was really interesting, and honestly an impressive tribute to the man. Chiang has a fantastic memorial hall, a top-stop in Taipei. In fact, here’s Amy wearing the CKS Memorial Hall as a hat:

TOOTH UPDATE!

Following the debacle on the Great Wall, I got my tooth fixed – temporarily. I made a dentist’s appointment in Taipei last week. Here I am in the office:

And here I am in the chair:

Molds were taken. Measurements were made. Then Amy and I had to take a few hours off while the “provisional crown” was being made. So we went out for a quick lunch:

Then back to the dentist’s office, and after some re-fitting and adjusting…

It’s just a temporary crown which should last for several months. There wasn’t enough time to make a permanent porcelain cap, but once we’re in Australia or New Zealand in a few months, we’ll get that done while we’re there longer. Phase one is complete, and while I’m trying to be cautious about what I eat, at least I’m smiling again.

All in all, we’re fine, Mom.